Eye shapes, depth
Deep-set eyes: how to tell, and makeup that brings them forward
Deep-set eyes sit further back in the face, under a brow bone that projects forward, so the upper lids fall into shadow and the crease tucks up under the brow. The shape is about depth, not outline: a deep-set eye can be almond or round, upturned or level. Makeup works by bringing light to the lid and keeping dark color out of the hollow, because shadow there only deepens it.
How to tell if you have deep-set eyes
Look straight into a mirror in daylight, with your face relaxed and your chin level, and check these:
- From the side, your brow bone sits clearly further forward than your eyelids.
- Your upper lids look shadowed, even in soft front light.
- Your crease sits high, close to the brow bone.
- Dark eyeshadow on your lid seems to disappear into shadow rather than show as color.
How deep-set eyes vary
Most deep-set eyes come from bone structure: a strong brow ridge, which is more common in men, or deeper eye sockets. Others look deeper because of thin skin and little fat around the eyes, which can increase with age or after losing weight.
Deep-set eyes are a normal shape. The medical term enophthalmos describes something different: an eye that has moved back in its socket, often after a facial fracture or from a sinus problem, and usually in one eye (Cleveland Clinic). If one eye starts to look more sunken than the other, see a doctor.
Lighting changes how deep-set eyes read more than any other shape. Overhead light deepens the shadow under the brow; light from the front, like a window you face, fills it in.
Deep-set vs hooded vs protruding eyes
Deep-set vs hooded
On hooded eyes, a fold of skin covers the lid. On deep-set eyes, the brow bone casts a shadow over a lid that is still there. Lift your brow gently with a fingertip: if the lid appears, it was depth; if a fold still covers it, it is hooding. Many eyes are both.
Deep-set vs protruding
The two are opposite ends of the same check. Seen from the side, prominent eyes sit forward of the line from brow to cheek; deep-set eyes sit behind it.
Makeup for deep-set eyes
Eyeliner
Keep liner fine and close to the lashes, focused on the outer half. A thick dark line on a deep-set eye sinks it further. Brown, taupe, or bronze liners define with less weight than black.
Eyeshadow
Light, satin, or softly shimmering shades on the lid bounce light into the hollow and bring the lid forward. Put the medium shade just above the crease, on the brow bone side, so it softens the bone rather than deepening the socket. Keep very dark shades to the outer corner.
Mascara and lashes
Curled, separated lashes add definition without darkening the area. Mascara on the top lashes does most of the work; keep lower lashes light.
What to skip
- Dark matte shadow in the crease: it carves the socket deeper.
- Heavy highlighter right under the brow: it makes the brow bone project further.
An everyday look, step by step
- Prime the lid and sweep a light satin shade from the lashes to the crease.
- Blend a soft medium matte just above the crease, on the brow bone side.
- Add a touch of deeper shade at the outer corner only.
- Draw a thin brown line along the outer half of the upper lashes.
- Curl and coat the top lashes; keep the lower lashes bare or lightly coated.
Brows and glasses for deep-set eyes
Brows
A brow that is groomed rather than heavy keeps the brow bone from dominating. Avoid drawing the brow lower than it grows, which shrinks the lid space further; tidying the hairs under the arch opens it.
Glasses
Lightweight frames with thin or clear rims keep from adding weight around the eyes. A top rim that sits at the brow line or just below it works better than a heavy bar across the brow bone.
Common combinations
Each eye shape describes one part of the eye, so most deep-set eyes come with other traits too. These pairings come up most often:
A strong brow bone with a fold beneath it is common, especially in men and with age. Keep the fold light and matte.
Deep-set eyes with an upturned tilt and a low brow are the pattern people call hunter eyes.
Deep-set, close-set eyes look closer still in shadow. Bring light to the inner corners.
Check your eye shape from a photo
Depth is three-dimensional, and a straight-on photo flattens it, so the detector does not guess. It asks you to check your profile in a mirror. If your eyes sit back under your brow bone, your result reads deep-set, alongside the opening, tilt, and spacing it measured.
Frequently asked questions
How do I know if my eyes are deep-set?
Look at your profile in a mirror, or take a photo from the side. If your eyelids sit clearly behind your brow bone and your lids look shadowed from the front, your eyes are deep-set.
Are deep-set eyes attractive?
Deep-set eyes are often described as striking and intense, and they are part of the look people call hunter eyes. Like any feature, how attractive they read depends on the whole face.
Is it the same as sunken eyes?
Not quite. Deep-set eyes are a normal shape you are born with. Sunken eyes can come from dehydration, weight loss, or aging skin, and an eye that moves back in its socket (enophthalmos) is a medical issue (Cleveland Clinic).
What eyeshadow is best for deep-set eyes?
Light and medium shades with a satin or soft shimmer finish on the lid, and a matte medium just above the crease. Keep dark matte shades out of the socket.
